Takitoa from Marquesas

Takitoa from Marquisas Islands from Pollywood Films on Vimeo.

Hinakura Soloist Tahitian Dance Costume

Ancient legends of Tahiti depict Hinakura as a striking and beautiful young maiden who married the equally handsome Tane Nui. The celebration was an historical event that united the people of Tahiti. This costume, created by our featured artisan Tahia Parker, a former "Hinakura" herself, showcases the vibrant colors and details that typically go into making a premier soloists' costume.

Here is her most recent version of the Hinakura costume. It is themed to the ocean and features many different shells and textures to represent the oceans many different moods. The costume is made using a shell lined headband, a beautiful oversized polished mother-of-pearl shell, rooster feathers and sprigs of feather bunches on coconut frond midribs. The headdress is completed with a shower of white shell leis hung at each side draping across the chest.

A matching colored bandeau bra top is included and is easily tied in the back. The hipband is designed to accentuate the back-and-forth of the hip movements. With a matching pareu, the hipband is layered on top leaving the front open. Not only does this allow for forward leg movements but also gives just enough weight to the belt. Adding a more or hau skirt underneath the hipband, creates for a more formal look.

The costume is made to order and strives to stay traditional. However, modern conveniences such as velcro, machine sewing, crafters glue and metal hooks allow for quick changes and durability. In addition to an ocean theme, there are many others that she creates including wind, volcano, fire, goddess, black pearl, beauty, rain, tiare, and royalty.

Tahia themes the Hinakura Soloist Tahitian Dance Costume to the colors requested. Each are a work of art and accentuate the soloists' most dramatic presentations. Prices start from $325. Average production time is 2-4 weeks.

Bonus Trivia: Tahia was one of the first girls to portray Hinakura at the Polynesian Cultural Center's Horizons evening show.

Samoan Lauhala Rolls

We just received an order of the Samoan lauhala. The Samoan lauhala rolls are a little smaller in diameter than our Tahitian lauhala and as such, have a great new lower price as well ($50).

The lauhala roll, or laufala, as it is known in Samoa, is made of approximately 60 leaves. The leaves are soft and pliable suitable for weaving, costumes and crafting projects.

Traditionally the women collected the dried leaves from the pandanus tree. They then stripped the thorns off, cleaned the leaves, and formed large rolls which made for easy storage. Starting a project, the women would pull lauhala leaves from the roll, shred them to the desired widths and weave them into various patterns and projects.

Each leaf is approximately 39 inches (1 meter) and averages about 2 1/2 inches in width. Imported. Product of Samoa.

The differences between the Samoan and the Tahitian rolls are minor. Both come from the local Pandanus trees found throughout the South Pacific islands. Both are stripped of thorns and softened in water (mostly in the ocean) to also clean the leaves. Later they are dried, flattened and gathered into rolls.

But we have noticed that they do have a slight difference in color. We've found that the Tahitian lauhala has a more golden tone. Whereas the Samoan lauhala has a greener tint to it. Other than that, we haven't noticed any significant differences.

Depending on how and where you store your rolls, humidity and light might also become a factor. Many of the projects that we have done or have seen have used the leaves quickly. The leaves have been soft and pliable and generally great to work with. Leaving the leaves for a long period of time will result in a difference in color (more brown).

Heiva I Honolulu 2010 program reprinted

Now available on our website for a limited time. This is a special second run of the 2010 Heiva I Honolulu program with a new glossy UV coating on the cover. The initial first run sold out early Saturday morning.

In case you didn't see it, the 32 page program was in full color cover to cover. Each group received at least a half page and had a summary of their program and/or information about their group. Contact information was posted (if provided) and at least 1 photo of the group and/or the ra'atira of the group. Sponsors, vendors, judges, mc's and support staff also received space on the program. Additional information such as the previous years' soloists awards, soloist criteria, group criteria, a Tahitian legend, and information about the organization, cover information, previous year photos and scoring information were also included.

It is a great way to remember the event and is a valuable resource of information about Tahitian dance. All of the groups did well, and as a spectator, I enjoyed watching each and every group. I thank you for sharing your time, talent and stories.

Maeva - Our new pareu design

Let's take a look at what we are getting ready to release. It's taken awhile (almost 6 months!!!). It wasn't exactly what we planned on doing. Actually we wanted to continue with our Tehani design but we had some supply problems. Last year, when we had planned on making a reorder of fabric, our manufacturer rep. here in Hawaii told us that they wouldn't be able to print our fabric any more. To say the least, this put a crimp on our plans. What were we going to do?

We have been printing our fabric in Japan because we preferred the quality, feel and the reputation. China was out of the question. We never considered it. Indonesia and Malaysia were suggested but we just didn't feel it was right. Where to print? My first choice was the US. But did you know that there just doesn't seem to be any large scale fabric manufacturers left in the country. It's very sad if you think about it.

So after being very disappointed by my finding, I remember being contacted several years ago by an Indian company, that's the country of India. I tried to contact them and lo and behold they were still there. It's a good sign as they are still in business after all these years. India, for those of you who don't know, is a leader in the textile industry. Their fabrics are known for their softness and exotic prints.


Well to make things simple, we've been progressing through the design and manufacturing process. We've got the design finalized and received strike offs. The first set of strike offs weren't exactly what we wanted so we sent for a second. We will be receiving those shortly. Typically, it is not uncommon to get 2 or 3 sets of strike offs to make sure the design and print is as it is supposed to be printed.

We're on the home stretch and we expect to receive the fabric within the next couple of months. Next steps are for receiving and passing through customs (hopefully without a hitch). We'll keep you posted.
The new fabric design is being printed on 100% cotton. Just like our other design - Tehani. We'll explain about the design on our next blog entry.

New print - Maeva

Tahitian Pareus, fabric and fashion. If you follow us on Facebook, you might have seen our announcement about our introducing a new print this Spring - Maeva. This welcome news is an exciting addition to our fabric offerings. We'll be writing about the development, how and why we moved to a new design. In the meantime, take a look at our teaser ad featuring one of our favorite models - Kamalei.

Lining and Zipper

I attached the lining first and then the zipper.

The seam is graded and understitched and then the lining was hand sewn into the waist.

I did a lapped zipper style. It was basted in first using a contrasting thread color and then machine sewn in following the basting. Then the basting stitches were removed. The top ends of the zipper were folded down and hand sewn into the inside of the dress. Then the hem was done. I havenʼt figured out how I would like to do shoulder straps so the two dresses that have been made do not have shoulder straps.

Here are two completed dresses. The one on the left was constructed by my sister using the wool yarn with full cross stitch and the one on the right is acrylic yarn with the seeding stitch. Both dresses are made to fit Bust 33, Waist 26, Hip 35, and skirt length 22. Anyone want to buy them? I want to make another one for myself but in different colors. : ) Angela

Skirt construction and Attaching bodice

Not much to say about constructing the skirt. It is very basic. The second picture shows the vent detail. Attaching the bodice to the skirt was difficult due to the thickness again. The lining is attached next if you donʼt mind the zipper showing on the inside of the dress. Otherwise the zipper should be put in next so the lining can in case it as well.

Construction of the Bodice

Since this is needlepoint, at first I was like “I AM GOING TO CUT THE NEEDLEPOINT” AAAAAhhhhhhhh. I hoped it will be okay and not unravel on me, but it was fine. One note to remember here is that the center back piece needs to be cut out twice. Once for the needlepoint outer bodice and once for lining.

The acrylic yarn makes the needlepoint very thick so I had to split open the darts to make it easier to sew the seams. Also, the fact that I ended up using pellon didnʼt help at all either.



Next up, skirt construction...

How to make a Maori Bodice Part I

Sorry, it took so long to get back at this. It took some time to complete the needlepoint. I think I am a slow sewer and it probably took about 40 hours to do this but it was spread out over a couple of months. This was done on a 10 count needlepoint canvas using 4 ply acrylic yarn (from Walmart) and done in a seeding type of stitch (not a cross stitch). I had to order the canvas online as nobody carries this in sufficient lengths to make it. This is my second needlepoint piece I have done.

The first needlepoint piece I did was done in the same pattern but on a 12 count canvas using 3 ply wool yarn and done in a full cross stitch. This took twice as long as my second piece. So if you have a lot of time on your hands or at least stitch faster than me, this looks very nice when done due to all the fine details. But the acrylic yarn colors are brighter. I will post a picture of these side by side later.

The picture here shows the completed needlepoint. This piece is 36 inches long because the dress bodice will be made for someone with a bust that size or smaller. This completed piece is then fused on the “wrong” side with interfacing. The only thing in the stores here is pellon. I DONʼT RECOMMEND PELLON. It is too thick. It would be better to use a light weight fusible knit interfacing. Next time, I will have to order this online too as I canʼt expect the fabrics stores on this island to carry something like that.

Well, more to come soon....

Angela

Coconut Island Shoulder Bag

This is one of the bags we've been waiting for. All the girls who've been to our place have all asked about getting one. Sorry it's taken so long. It's simple and fun... and one more thing - affordable. Fit your cell phone, ipod and whatever essential makeup needed. Inside side pocket divides bag into 2 areas. A great find for the islander in you.

For good measure, we'll throw in a Tehani girl sticker.

PCC Night Show - Ha

I went to see the new night show at the Polynesian Cultural Center on December 29th with my sister. My sister was visiting from Arizona. It was her second time to Hawaii and her first time to see the night show at PCC.

As we were waiting for the show to begin, I was struck by the appearance of the stage. I do have a few vague memories of the Mana show and very vivid memories of Horizons. I think the people in charge of the new show, Ha - The Breath of Life, didn't realize the biggest complaint about Mana was the stage. It lacked color and vibrancy.

When Horizons began its run, the stage had gone through a major renovation. And it was fantastic. In contrast, the stage for Ha was pathetic. The color and vibrancy was gone. Not only is the water curtain not being used, it was filled in with sand. That same sand is spread partly onto the stage as well. The sand is an off-white color, naturally, and it really deadens the overall color of the stage. The sand has been danced upon and has infiltrated more of the stage than perhaps the original intention. If it is too expensive to maintain the water curtain, then fine; don't use it. But please don't use sand. I'm sure the original intention is to give a beach or shoreline feeling to the stage to imitate the stage as an island but it just doesn't work.

One thing I kept hearing from people who still work at PCC or have some connection with it, is that Horizons had no story. I reminded them that it did have a story and if the complaint is that, then bring back the original story. Like all shows, it changed over time and was simplified. Horizons did need some simplification and it did achieve the right balance a few months after it started. But after 10 years, the Horizons show no longer contained some original elements or the "story".

Anyways, I was quite interested in what the "story" could be for Ha. Guess what! The story was the same as Horizons. It was about birth, childhood, becoming an adult, marriage, old age, and passing on traditions. IT IS THE SAME STORY. Just different costumes and arrangement of island dance groups.

Another thing I heard about before going to this show, was that there was more drama or more speaking parts. Well, this was mostly the narration for the animation. So no more narration really than Horizons had originally. Horizons eventually had it cut down mostly because it was not needed. And from what I saw that Tuesday night, it is not needed in the new show as well.

The animation is cute and interesting but I felt it was distracting. I have seen shows who have used fabric screens and projected images as part of the show but there seemed too much emphasis on it for this show. We can all watch videos at home. People come to Hawaii and PCC to see culture LIVE. I feel very sorry for the Polynesian Cultural Center for spending money (millions of dollars) on the animation. The narrator for the animation had a very pleasant tone of voice, but his enunciation and phrasing could use some work. Accents are fine and narrators in Horizons had accents, but this one could put you to sleep.

I have always said the quality and variety of the dancing shown at PCC is well worth the money. And I will still say that after seeing Ha. But I am disappointed in some of the costumes. The Hawaii section had the loudest colors but not natural at all. The colors were teal and hot pink. The guys were wearing the bright hot pink too. I have been at many luaus or other local shows over the last 15 years and I have never seen that choice in print or color for a show. The costumes should be what local people would pick for themselves. The Tonga section was my favorite. Tonga is the one area I liked better than Horizons (for costumes). Tahiti was okay but I've heard from some that it is disappointing that there were no hau skirts. The most disappointing was the Maori section. There was no needlepoint bodices on the girls, puipui skirts, patus or taiahas. The colors were dull browns, yellows, black, and white. And this on a very dull looking stage due to all the sand. Perhaps the point here is to de-emphasize the warrior part of the culture but at the same time managed to strip out all the passion. However, going back to my original point for this paragraph, the students are doing a good job and do dance as well as any other time I have seen the shows: Mana, Horizons, or now Ha.

One last item to point out is the representation of the spirit world. I noticed the dancers/performers wearing white Hawaiian traditional clothes from the beginning but didn't realize who they were until half way through. That part of the story is almost, accidentally, not there. And this is the most beautiful part of the story which should receive more emphasize somehow so that the audience would know what it was from the beginning. Perhaps taiaha could be brought back in because taiaha represent your ancestor, etc, etc.

Now, a little from my sister's reaction. She enjoyed the show very much. But she doesn't have much to compare it with. She just graduated with a music major for her college degree and also performs. She was impressed with the music and also the musicians. Her biggest issue is with the line up of the different cultures. My sister had been through the PCC villages 4 years ago and exposed to the different island cultures. So from that time till now to see the night show, she felt completely lost at which island culture she was looking at. The animation introduces each island but the animation looks the same from island to island so the impression is completely lost.

Overall, PCC may still have the best show in all of Hawaii. But they charge too much considering they seemed to skimp on the costumes, the stage, and pay part time students minimum wage... $60 tickets for just the show alone!? (Although the show website advertises tickets priced at $45) Yeah, waaayyy too much. Yes, PCC, you put all the money in the wrong area. Money should have gone to costumes, stage, and guess what? the students.

Miss Fiji crowned Miss South Pacific

Miss Fiji Mere Nailatikau was crowned the new Miss South Pacific over the weekend in Suva, Fiji. The Miss National Tourism title went to Miss French Polynesia, Aruhoia Biret.

More at Tahiti Presse

Call to Polynesian Artisans

You may or may not know, but we get the majority of our products from artisans. Whether they call themselves that or not is up to them. But we like to consider all our handicrafters as artisans.

That is why we are opening up a new section on our website featuring artisans of Polynesia. We've got some great Tahitian black pearl jewelry artisans and costume designers that have won awards in many competitions and events. Our first two artisans, Pola Teriipaia and Tahia Parker are accomplished award-winning ra'atira and costume designers. You can take peek at their section here. They have more designs and ideas and we can't wait to unveil them in the coming months.

We also obviously realize that there are so many other artisans out there. Many of them don't have websites. This is a great way for those artisans to reach a larger audience without having to create, purchase and maintain their own website. We even take care of shipping, operational issues and accepting credit cards.

So if you are a Polynesian artisan wanting more exposure, more income, and more clients, consider becoming one of our artisans. Our artisans participating in the section decide on the price, details, options, and timing. All we ask for is a commission and a percentage for covering shipping and handling expenses and charges. We'd love to hear from you and we work on an individual basis because each artisan has their own individual needs and circumstances. Email Scott at scott@blackpearldesigns.net

Black Pearl Designs is looking for artisans who create traditional reproductions, original art, fashions, carvings, music and the like of Polynesian products including Tahitian, Hawaiian, Maori, Fijian, Marquesan, Rarotongan, Tongan and Samoan among others.

We have a built in audience who are more likely to know your product designs or are familiar with the Polynesian cultures in general. Our audience is interested in Polynesian culture, dance, tattooing, art, and music. Contact us today.

Miss French Polynesia to compete for Miss South Pacific title

After claiming the Miss French Polynesia title earlier this year in Pirae on the island of Tahiti, Aruhoia Marine Biret is in the running for the 2009 Miss South Pacific title.

Last year Vanessa Marsh of Niue was crowned the 2008 Miss South Pacific in American Samoa. This years Miss South Pacific pageant will be held in Suva, Fiji. It will be the first time that Fiji has ever hosted the event. The weeklong event will culminate with the crowning of the Miss South Pacific 2009-2010 on Saturday, November 28, 2009.

Nine young women from Fiji, Cook Islands, Tahiti, Tonga, Samoa, American Samoa, Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands, and Tuvalu, will compete for the title.

An online poll by Fiji Live is currently showcasing the pageant and will be active up to the event.

Tahitian - English dictionary at Black Pearl Designs

One of the most important ways to help preserve a culture is by preserving its language. Although it is always evolving, the language of Tahiti and French Polynesia is no exception. That's why we are so grateful to finally be able to get the Tahitian - English Dictionary (Fa'atoro Parau) and made available to the public. This is a reprint of the original 2002 hardcover edition. This new soft cover edition is the same 726 page resource authored by Taote Tivini (Sven Wahlroos). Sadly the author recently passed on but his work will live on in a planned 2nd edition as well.

The Tahitian - English Dictionary mainly features English words translated into Tahitian. In addition there is a smaller section where Tahitian words are translated into English. The dictionary also touches on the origins, uses, and pronunciations of Tahitian words. It also works to encourage the use of diacritical marks similar to the Hawaiian language as it is written. The author addresses the advantages and consequences of the increasing use of the French language in the Tahitian society.

When it comes to having a Tahitian language dictionary, there is no comparison. The shear volume of information that this includes has no peer. In fact, it is still used in many of the schools of Tahiti.

Don't wait to get your copy. It's an invaluable resource for anyone looking to increase their understanding and appreciation of not only the language of Tahiti but also the culture of Tahiti.

Dictionaries will ship in November 2009. Just in time for the holidays.

How to tie a pareo - Tehani

Our model Kamalei, is wearing a Mahana Pareo demonstrating one of our most requested pareo tying style - Tehani.

One of our more ambitious pareo tying styles, the Tehani is our nod to the popular and visually distinct bias cut. It's a wrap that can be adjusted to show a little or a lot. Start by wrapping the pareo vertically around your body. Hold the top two ends and tie above shoulder. Now comes the twist. Start pulling gently around your body from the hip. Adjust for coverage and tie at hip. Note, this will not be at a corner of the pareo, rather an approximation of where it fits best to your body.

If you have a longer pareo than the usual 72", this might work well to give you a longer dressier look. Using a gauzy or rayon pareo will probably work best on this style but as always, these pareo tying styles are creative creations and will fit differently on every body type.

Wrapped up in our new Temana Belt

Looking for a more upscale and elegant look? Look no further. Even on the beach, you'll turn heads. The belt feels so natural on the hips.

Our new Temana Belt is made from intricately woven raffia fibers. These fibers are soft and pliable, not to mention that they are also light in weight. If you wear it with a dark neutral colored skirt, fashionable pareo, or dress, your belt will stand out with the light color and texture.

Have we mentioned the shells? Four shells carved in the shape of Tahitian tiare flowers adorn the belt just to give the right touch of French Polynesia. It combines the flower of Tahiti and one of the artisans of Tahiti's most favored natural resource - the Black Pearl shell or mother of pearl.

What's more is a feature that took almost a year to get right. It might seem small but the pearl shell buckle hooks into the belt in a seamless way. The belt has three sizes that you can choose from - 34, 37, and 40 inches. And you can move between the sizes by hooking the mother of pearl shell buckle in the hidden loops.

Because each belt is handmade, each is unique. It's perfect for the woman who's looking for just the right amount of Polynesia and fashion.

Black Pearl Designs logo shop is now open

What is that you say? Black Pearl Designs new look is in the works. Along with a redesign, we are going to be adding in more products, more how-to-tie instructions and a couple surprises on the way. We are almost 5 years old and all throughout our anniversary we'll be introducing new products, news and of course, designs.

One of the additions is the new Black Pearl Designs logo shop. This is where you'll be able to find our designs. You can pick up a shirt or bag of our Black Pearl Girl - Tehani. She's great! Sassy, intriguing, enchanting and a little sultry. Look closer and you'll notice that she is wearing our signature Tehani pareo.

In the future you'll be able to see additional designs showing off some of the creative designs of our artists and crafters.

Hard-to-get Island Kili bags

You might remember Jackie Onassis carrying one of these, or maybe a young woman in the Cook Islands walking to church, but once you've seen the Island Kili bags, you won't forget. They are the epitome of island class. Originally made by the islanders from Bikini Atoll, the intricate weaving of young coconut leaf fibers is all done by hand. In Polynesia, the fibers are called niau blanc.

Inside the bag you'll find a layer of classic 1/4 inch wide lauhala strips woven together to insulate. The top of the bag is attached at one end and opens with a flip of the lid. Woven handles complete the look.

Its perfect for any time of year, but even better in the warm summer months. The bag is light so its easy and effortlessly taken from place to place. Store your iPod or iPhone, essential makeup, travel lotion or pareo. It lifts casual island style to new elegance.

Check out the 2 sizes available priced $48 for the small and $72 for the medium. It'll make you feel like booking a flight just to stroll through an island getaway or Hawaii Vacation. If you can afford a little pampering, take the trip. If a trip is a little out of range, save up. It's worth it. In the meantime, this Island Kili bag will keep the islands fresh in your mind every time you pick it up or get compliments and jealous looks.